Due to many requests for the Food Passion Insights to be posted, we will be adding them one by one shortly -here’s the first for those of you that missed out on the first edition!
I have always thought Swansea’s maritime quarter has retained a certain edge, one that more gentrified waterfront locations have long since lost. I’m not sure many people would want to hang on too eagerly to the pungent smell of fishnets drying on the side of the marina, but it brings the source of my food closer to my daily life, which I think is no bad thing. Especially so, since those news reports of children who apparently don’t know what a chicken is. Sometimes it is just nice to be reminded where your food comes from. It’s a shame then that what is left of the Swansea fishing fleet is kept so restricted to the public. Yes, you can view the boats, but one is kept just that little too far from the fishermen themselves to see and hear what is going on.
Immensely frustrated at this, I managed to persuade a pair of fluorescent clad gents to let me through the double gate leading to the fishermen’s jetty. Within minutes of introducing myself, that wonderful Swansea hospitality came to life, and I found myself aboard a surprisingly fresh smelling floating steel hulk, having been given a wonderful cup of tea by fisherman Peter Gwilliam.‘Why aren’t you at sea on such a beautiful day?’
‘No good’, he says glancing at the clear blue sky, ‘there’ll be bad weather shortly, a horrible south-easterly wind at Force 5 or 6’. I can’t see it myself, but it is part of Peter’s livelihood to know the weather, and sure enough as I sit here writing, the rain is truly coming down. After being caught out in a Force 9 electric storm not long ago, I guess he doesn’t want to experience that again too soon.
He flicks on an array of screens in the cabin, which I have to marvel at, as he demonstrates the 30-50m depth of the channel, the location of hitches (obstacles to you and me, including wrecks, anchors and even war mines), and where he catches his squid at Oxwich Point. ‘The squid disappeared for 9 years, after the Sea Empress disaster’ he tells me, ‘probably the detergent, but they came back last year for the first time’.Now you hear about the plight of fishermen on the news, but it doesn’t really sink in until they tell you face to face their predicament. A number are already selling their boats and moving on, others say it’s only a matter of time. It seems like a very sad resignation, for both of us. Some have suggested that there are good opportunities for working holidays, or for day boat fishing trips for tourists, but it must be difficult to make a jump from fisherman to tour operator.
Peter catches sole, plaice, ray, bass and turbot, and shows me his home-made shrimp pots, which he is hoping will see him through the winter. Much of his produce ends up on the plates of us Swansea folk, through Tucker’s fish market in the Swansea market. Today he has several large buckets of dogfish, a shark-like, brown fish. ‘We ‘shoot the gear,’ and the specially designed equipment allows no refuge for the fish. But this can have a negative effect on fish numbers as well.’ Ironically he points out a boat which has none of the trawling equipment anchored to the back. ‘This one just uses fine fishing nets, and has come back with a very good catch – we are considering doing this ourselves. Right now we just don’t get enough money for our fish, and the price of our fuel has doubled in the last few years.’
As I look around at the gleaming 10+ story buildings going up around me, the
simplicity of Peter’s rusting steel boat, and his brother’s floating a few jetties down, scrubbing brushes on deck, strikes me as something which we may not see for that much longer.